Winter is approaching, and sprinkler winterizing should be right behind! If you own an irrigation system, it needs to be taken care of before there’s cold weather. It’s not a fun homeowner experience, but it’s less painful than fixing things at a later date.
What do you get if you don’t? Frozen pipes, burst valves, and busted sprinkler heads. And you won’t even notice damage exists until spring when you turn power back on to everything.
Ready to winterize your sprinkler system? We’re sharing when to winterize, the different ways to do it, and so much more!
In short, winterizing is about getting all the water out. Every last drop that you can possibly get. The whole point is leaving your pipes, valves, and sprinkler heads dry, so there’s nothing left for freezing temps to ruin.
Ignore the need to winterize and pipes usually are the first to fail. They crack and break up. Plastic valves crack and sprinkler heads get pushed entirely out of where they should be due to ice building up inside.
Here’s something to keep in mind regarding different systems. The majority of the newer units employ either rigid white PVC pipe or flexible black polyethylene. PVC is brittle, so it may freeze and crack with little resistance. Polyethylene is better able to tolerate the cold because it flexes, but even that will burst if water somehow gets left inside and then expands.

The most important part of winterization is that you do it before temperatures drop below freezing. Since that happens at different times in different places, precise timing really depends on exactly where you live.
Down south, it might be late November or early December. Honestly though, some southern areas may not need it at all. Most Andy’s Sprinkler, Drainage & Lighting locations are in southern and coastal areas, but we do offer additional winterization services in areas where sustained freezes are more likely.
Again, don’t wait until it’s too late! Everyone tries to schedule this at the same time, so booking ahead saves you the headache.
The optimal time is right before the first freeze arrives. But if a sudden cold snap shows up? Simply shut your system off at the controller and reach out to us ASAP. We’ll make sure everything’s taken care of for the remainder of the season.
If your system has this setup, it does half the work for you. Automatic drain valves open and drain water whenever pressure drops below a certain level.
However, this is where things get somewhat tricky. Those valves work great for the sprinkler heads and the lateral pipes, but they won’t do anything to the main supply line. You still have to drain that mainline by hand, or you’re asking for a major break. You should also check any check valves that you might have, as these will also hold water.
The best part about this winterizing solution? It takes virtually no effort on your end. The worst part? It’s not foolproof. You might still wish to do a partial blowout as a safeguard.
Can you DIY? Mostly. But you need to know what your system can and can’t handle.
This is a really hands-on one. Start by shutting off the main water supply to your irrigation system. Sounds easy, but people skip this step all the time. It doesn’t qualify to turn off a hose spigot. You need to find the actual main shut-off valve, which is usually hiding somewhere in your basement or utility room.
Then open all of your manual drain valves at the low points in your system. Proceed to your controller and run one complete cycle with the water already off. This cycle opens all of the automatic valves and drains any pressure being held in the mainline. Once that cycle is finished, switch your controller to the off or rain mode setting.
The advantage of this method? It won’t break the bank. The disadvantage? Water likes to hang around in low spots or tough areas to reach, and you might miss some.
Do it yourself? Yes, if your system has manual drain valves and you don’t mind finding them and getting them open.
This process uses a big air compressor that shoots compressed air through your pipes to force all of the water out. This is a great method, regardless of which climate you live in or what kind of system you have.
The issue is, you need specialty equipment that gets to the right PSI (pounds per square inch) and CFM (cubic feet per minute). Generally, you’re looking at 40 to 80 PSI and a compressor that provides 30 to 100 CFM. Crank the pressure too high and you can damage your pipes or blow them entirely apart. Go too low and water gets left behind.
You need specialized gear for this kind of task, and there’s real risk involved if you don’t know what you’re doing.
But do you need a blowout for your irrigation system? Only if you’re located in a region with long-lasting freezes. However, most of our customers live in warmer climates that don’t need blowout services.
Other options for winterization? Temporary removal or insulation of aboveground irrigation components. This safeguards your system from cold snaps and other unexpected weather surprises. 
Really want to do a blowout yourself? Be careful as you follow this quick how-to.
Consider operating each zone twice. That way you can be sure you actually drained out all the water.
If you want to tackle this job yourself, be certain you realize what you’re getting into.
Hiring a professional has some real advantages when it comes to winterizing a sprinkler system.
Can I run my sprinkler system in winter?
Yes, we highly recommend doing so. You will need to adjust watering schedules for winter. Watering as long as you can into winter will help your lawn stay gorgeous until spring.
How long does a sprinkler blowout take?
A professional blowout for a typical residential sprinkler system takes around 30 minutes, but a DIY blowout would probably take an hour or more.
Can I not winterize if I live in a warm climate?
If your winter temperatures rarely hit freezing, you can probably get away with just shutting off the system. But if you see temperatures below 32 degrees Fahrenheit in the forecast, it’s better to be safe.
What if I forget to winterize my sprinkler system?
Shut off the water to the system and set the controller to “rain mode” immediately. Then call a professional ASAP to drain it. This isn’t ideal, but it’s better than nothing.
How do I know if it’s fully drained?
During a blowout, you know a zone is done when the sprinkler heads are emitting a fine, clear mist instead of a wet spray.
What PSI is best for a blowout?
Don’t exceed 80 PSI. For flexible poly pipe, stay at 50 PSI or lower to avoid damage.
A sprinkler system winterization isn’t difficult, especially when you trust Andy’s. It safeguards your grass and prevents some of those annoying, costly repairs down the line.
When you see colder weather approaching, reach out to Andy’s to schedule your sprinkler system winterization! Here’s what our customers love about us:
It’s usually a bad solenoid plunger or wiring issue. Shut off the main water supply and call Andy’s Waco team.
Parts usually cost $30 to $150, with labor depending on your system setup.
Yes, you can clear dirt or debris from the plunger and diaphragm. If it doesn’t fix the problem, call Andy’s.
Typically 7–10 years with proper care. Rockwall’s mineral-rich water and heavy soil can shorten that lifespan without regular maintenance.
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Madison, AL 35758